September, 1998
My husband, Donald Elson, and I traveled to the Yucatan,
primarily to explore the ancient Mayan ruins. What we discovered there
was a heritage of diverse civilizations, times and people. A history which
began approximately 20,000 years ago in Asia when homo sapiens sapiens
crossed the Bering land bridge into the new world. By 900 BC the Mayan
culture was flourishing in Mexico, by the 1400's their civilization surpassed,
in many ways, that of her eventual captors. A new phase of history began
with the Spanish conquest and colonization.
Donald and I stayed at Hacienda Chichen, an elegant and
gracious hotel located a short walking distance from the "ruines" of Chichen
Itza and the Pyramid of Kulkulcan. While strolling the grounds of the hacienda
we stumbled upon ruins of the 17th century chapel pictured above. Our interest
in the this colonial monument led us to write to Richard Perry, an expert
on colonial Mexico whom we located through a web search. In answer to our
email note, Mr. Perry wrote:
The historic chapel at Hacienda Chichen is actually the
only part of the colonial hacienda still standing. It was spared destruction
during the Caste War of 1846, in fact the Maya rebels used it as their
local headquarters. John Stephens also stayed there on his well known travels
in Yucatan, and Sylvanus Morley used it as his study during the archeological
work at Chichen Itza in the 1920s. Standing atop what remains of an ancient
temple mound, the chapel probably dates from the 1700s, although its distinctive
"espadana" may have been added in the early 19th century. Last time I saw
it, the chapel was not in use except for special occasions. Our book Maya
Missions describes this chapel and the numerous interesting colonial churches
and building across Yucatan. If you plan another visit you will find it
useful. Touring colonial Yucatan is a wonderful way to avoid the crowds
and experience the authentic Maya communities of the peninsula. To order,
please check our web site, which also includes info and updates on other
colonial treasures in Yucatan.
Photos taken September 3, 1998
by Valerie Elson |
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