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Our goal in writing this primer is to give our new German Shepherd puppy owners some guidance in what to do and what to expect when they bring home their adorable little furry bundle of joy. The idea behind writing our Primer came from the questions that we received from individuals and families who have made one of our puppies a part of their lives. We sincerely appreciate their questions, observations and insights, and we are always open to new ideas and information. Our discussion here is not intended to be a comprehensive or definitive review. We are just trying to provide some helpful information, and we strongly encourage you to check out the many excellent books, articles and videos on puppy behavior and puppy training. We recommend that you learn as much as you can about canine behavior. This will assist you in making intelligent decisions about interactions with your new friend.
Remember that while your new puppy has spent the past few months with his mother and his littermates, we have also spent individual time with him. In many cases, we have taken him to some new places such as buildings and shopping centers. He has ridden in our car, spent time in a crate, walked on slick flooring and has even been in an elevator. He has heard loud noises such as shopping carts clanging together and horns honking. He has seen bicycles, watched noisy traffic and played with children. His world is one of senses to be experienced, and it is extremely important that you continue to socialize your puppy during the first months of life. Studies have indicated that the critical socialization period for a dog is between eight and sixteen weeks of life. During this period it is essential that they safely experience as much as possible. Some of these experiences will be a little stressful, and you must support your puppy during these events. Many years ago, I remember walking a puppy in a quiet shopping center. Suddenly part of a newspaper blew by startling him. He curiously--but a little fearfully--watched the newspaper as it continued to blow up against a wall. You could tell he wanted to check it out, but his survival instinct was also telling him to run away. I did not pull him towards the paper, but allowed his own curiosity to take over. He very hesitantly moved forward, and I quietly encouraged this bravery. Finally he was face-to-face with the source of his fear, the newspaper. I really bragged on him, and he thought he was the most courageous canine on earth. He proceeded to pick up the newspaper and give it a good head shake! He met his fear and overcame it. The next time he would be more confident when encountering a strange object. Confidence begets confidence, and a confident dog is a good-tempered dog. You can see that you play a major role in providing this confidence. We have furnished the genetics by breeding two excellent dogs, but you must build on this foundation. If your puppy never leaves your home or yard, he will be fearful of life. Sometimes they can overcome these adversities, but it is advisable to get him off to the right start. We know that life styles today make it difficult to spend much time with the new puppy, but try to take him on "field trips" 2-3 times a week. The time period does not have to be long. A quality 15 minutes will go a long way. You might ask: "What if my dog is a year old, and he has never left our house except to go to the vet for his shots." It's not too late. Start today. Keep in mind that he's probably associating the car with maybe not so pleasant trips to the vet's office. Take it slowly. Maybe put him in the car for 30 seconds, and give him a treat and take him out. Build up the time and start driving him around the block. Support and encourage him. Do not scold. Only positive reinforcement works here. A word of caution: Unfortunately there are many contagious diseases such as Parvo which are especially dangerous to young puppies. You have to balance the importance of socialization with the risk of taking your puppy outside his home. We do not recommend that you take your young puppy to parks or other public places where many dogs frequent such as some of the pet stores that allow you to take your dog inside. You may be up-to-date on all of your puppy's shots, but you don't know about the other guy. There are plenty of other places you can visit. This is why we recommend going to malls and other stores. We go to the huge shopping malls and just stand outside one of the main entrances. They will get great exposure to people, children, noises, traffic, etc. Some stores like Home Depot (at least the ones in our area) also let you take your dog in on lead. Another great place to take your puppy is a hotel that allows pets. They have slick floors, elevators and lots of interesting things for your puppy to explore. We also do not recommend "dog parks" where dogs of all sizes and ages are allowed to roam free. Dogs are pack animals (we'll discuss in more detail below), and they instinctively want to establish a pack order. A dominant dog without inhibited aggression may harm your dog. Even if no physical damage is done to your dog, you really do not want your dog dominated by another dog. Survival instinct will tell your puppy to submit to the larger or mature (sometimes smaller) dog, and this interaction is not productive for your puppy. You want to encourage as strong a bond as possible between you and your dog, and if the truth were known, dogs would probably rather be with their own kind. Dog parks allow dogs to play with each other and actually encourage this behavior. Your dog should want to play with you and find you the center of their attention--not another dog. If puppies become extremely involved with other dogs, they will lose their interest in people and become much more difficult to train. There's almost nothing more exciting than bringing home a new puppy. You just anticipate that perfect and wonderful ball of fur. You see him being another Lassie or RinTinTin responding to your every command and knowing intuitively what to do. And he will be extremely well mannered and well behaved. Some of you who have experienced the joys of owning a puppy--specially a German Shepherd puppy from German bloodlines--will be falling on the floor laughing at this point. But believe it or not, we have many requests from people wanting a puppy that meets all these requirements. Well, the plain and honest truth about a puppy is that if they weren't so darn cute, you would probably kill them. Believe me, the first few days can be difficult on you and your puppy. Your pup has been plucked from his littermates and is expected to fit right in with your way of life. You need loads of patience and a good sense of humor. If you work or are in school, it is a good idea to plan the puppy's arrival when you have a couple of days off like right before a weekend. Remember that your puppy does not speak English. As much as you yell at him, he hasn't the foggiest notion of what you mean. He only senses you are angry, and he does not know why. You must teach him what you expect, and you must do so without harsh physical corrections. When he is doing good, you teach him that "good dog", "good boy", "good girl" are nice words with nice sounds and associated with petting, praise and/or treats. Conversely, he learns that bad actions are associated with "no", "phooey", "bad" and have sharp disapproving verbal sounds. With some stubborn puppies, a neck scruff--like his mother would have done--is very effective in conjunction with whatever term you have decided to use for unwanted behavior. Pick a word for unwanted behavior and stay consistent with its use. If you use different words and expressions such as "get away from there," "Fang, I said stop that," "quit that," "shut-up," etc., your puppy will be confused. Make it clear, and be CONSISTENT. Let your puppy explore on his own. Studies have shown that the 8th week is a fear period, so if you get your puppy during the 8th week, which is very common, try not to expose him to sharp noises or harsh treatment for this week. Be very patient, loving and understanding. You should be well prepared for your new puppy. You should have decided where he is going to live, sleep and go to the bathroom. Puppies should not be given the run of the house or yard unless they are constantly supervised like you would supervise a two-year-old child. NEVER LEAVE YOUR PUPPY IN THE HOUSE WITHOUT SUPERVISION. They are extremely destructive. They do not know that your woodwork, couch, drapes or electrical wiring are off-limits. They can severely injure themselves as well as destroy your home. If you have to leave your puppy for long hours while you are at school or work, we recommend that you provide an outside facility for him. Generously sized dog runs serve this purpose. The run must have some shade and shelter from the elements, and you should always have an ample supply of fresh water and a toy. For our German Shepherds, we recommend 9 gage fencing. With a higher gage, the fencing is not as strong. Your puppy can learn to move the fence by pulling on it and will damage his teeth along with the fence. The size of the run can vary, but it should be a minimum of 8' x 10' to allow for some exercise and freedom of movement. A larger dog run would be preferable for a German Shepherd. DOG RUNS AND DOG CRATES ARE NOT CRUEL. They are a necessity in owning a German Shepherd. But having a crate and a run does not mean that you keep your dog in there all the time. You must spend quality time with your dog every day. Give him an early morning or late evening walk. Don't jog with a young dog. Wait until he is a year of age so his bones will have a chance to develop. Take him to a safe area and play ball or hide and seek. Take him out tracking or start some positive obedience training. They are little sponges ready to soak up everything. You'll be amazed how quickly your puppy will catch on. And it's stimulating for him and builds a stronger bond with you. If your climate permits (not too hot), take him with you on short trips or errands. The highlight of his day is being with you. This is all he thinks of all day. He only wants to please you. Be ready for your puppy by planning ahead in providing a safe and secure area for him and be patient and realistic about your puppy. You will have to gently teach him the rules of his new home. This is another instance where a little preparation will help. Hopefully, you have taken a couple of days off from work or school, so you were able to spend several hours with him getting him use to his new environment. We suggest having the puppy's sleeping area next to your bed so he feels your presence, and you can reach out to touch and comfort him. The little guy is lonely. He misses his family so expect some separation crying. We like to use a closed crate with a little padding and a safe toy. Some folks have asked us to send a towel with the scent of the littermates. They say this helps, so you might give it a try. We have also used the ticking clock but really have not had much luck with this. Recently a friend told us that she placed several stuffed animals in her puppy's crate, and this helped the stress of separating from his litter. Give it a try. Make sure puppy has gone to the bathroom before you put him to bed. Expect to get up once or twice during the night to comfort him or let him out to relieve himself. A puppy really does not have bladder control until 12 weeks of age at the minimum so he might have an accident in his crate. We'll talk more about this later, but just keep in mind that at this tender age he cannot help himself. When you gotta go, you gotta go. You really want to minimize the separation anxiety as much as possible. If you just stick him in the garage or another room and wear earplugs, you might be creating a long-term problem, which could manifest itself in the future by excessive barking and destructiveness. This is a subject on which there is a different opinion from everyone that you ask. If you have selected a location other than your bedroom for puppy's permanent sleeping area, it's probably not a good idea to keep him in your bedroom for more than a few days. But again, be prepared for a little squawking when you place him in his new sleeping quarters. After a few days, he should settle down and give you some rest. This is another subject that will yield a different opinion from everyone that you ask. We'll give you some suggestions. There are some excellent dog foods on the market, and we suggest you feed a very high quality food such as Nutro, Sensible Choice or Purina ProPlan. These foods by no means cover the list of good dog foods. We currently feed Innova Evo and Royale Canine for German Shepherds. Some people say chicken based is the best, and other people say lamb based is the best. Still others strongly advocate a raw diet. Bottom line is get a high quality puppy food and see if your puppy does well on it. If you experience loose stools, poor coat, etc., and you have ruled out other problems, try another food. We suggest you do not go hoping around from one food to another. If you find a quality food that your puppy enjoys, and he is doing well on it, stay with that food. DO NOT GET YOUR PUPPY OVERWEIGHT! DO NOT FREE FEED! It is imperative that you do not have an overweight puppy. You need to feed enough for them to comfortably move through their growing periods, but you absolutely do not want to feed too much. Our veterinarian has told us that you should not be able to see the ribs, but you should be able to feel them easily. We think this is a good rule of thumb. But, it's not as easy as you think with a growing puppy. One day they look fat, so you cut down the food. You look at them in a couple of days, and the ribs and backbone are poking out. You really have to watch them closely since they are growing at an incredible rate. Studies have indicated that overweight is a contributing factor towards hip dysplasia. We get a lot of questions on how often you should feed. We recommend feeding puppies 3 times a day until they are 3-4 months old. We realize that in many situations, this is not possible, as you are unable to be there during the middle of the day to feed. If this is the case, feed twice daily, a.m. and p.m. We continue to feed twice daily even after they have matured to adults. We just do not like giving them their entire quantity of food in one meal, and some studies have indicated that feeding twice daily is a good defense against bloat. This is another one of those controversial subjects where there are bunches of opinions. Generally, you do not want your dog to be very active either directly before or directly after you feed. After you feed them, you need to give them at least a couple of hours at rest for the food to digest. Limiting activity before and after meals is another deterrent to bloat. When should you quit feeding puppy food? We suggest that adult food is in order no later than when your puppy reaches 6 months of age. You might do a little research on your own in order to decide when to switch. The issue of food is very controversial and complex, and there are extensive materials on the Internet for your perusal. Then there is the issue of supplements. Should you or shouldn't you? We have been told that the dog food on the market these days is such high quality involving so much scientific research that supplements are not necessary. Well, maybe, but we have observed noticeable differences with some supplements. We suggest that you research this area as well. There are so many possibilities that we cannot even begin to cover them here. Please drop us an e-mail if you would like to know what we use.
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