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Mountaineering

"What is vertigo? Is it the fear of falling? No, vertigo is something other than the fear of falling. It is the voice of the emptyness below us which tempts and lures us, it is the desire to fall, against which, terrified, we defend ourselves."
Milan Kundera

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California Fourteeners

California's tallest peaks at a glance.

Peak Height Trailhead / Elevation Elevation Gain/Distance from Trailhead Routes Notes and Links
Mount Langley
Mount Langley, from the east.
14042'
4275 m
Horseshoe Meadows
10000'
4042' / ~8.5 miles South Slope: Class 2 An enjoyable dayhike from Horseshoe Meadows, Langley provides nice views of Whitney and Williamson.
Mount Muir
Mount  Muir, from Consultation Lake.
14015'
4271 m
Whitney Portal
8340'
5675' / ~7 miles via Mule Trail West Slope: Class 3 Bypassed by most of the Whitney-bound hordes, Muir offers some fine scrambling and excellent views.
Mount Whitney
Mount Whitney towers over Iceberg Lake.
14494'
4417 m
Whitney Portal
8340'
6154' / ~8 miles via Mule Trail
~4.2 miles via Mountaineer's Route
West Slope: Class 1-2
Mountaineer's Route: Class 3
The Mountaineers Route is a nice alternative to the easier but overcrowded Mule Trail.
Mount Russell
Mount Russell, from the south.
14086'
4294 m
Whitney Portal
8340'
5746' / ~4 miles East Arete: Class 3 While technically easy, the wonderful exposure of the East Arete has thwarted many parties.
Photo Gallery
Mount Williamson
Mount Williamson, from Williamson Bowl.
14375'
4380 m
Symmes Creek
6335'
1920 m
~9000' / ~11 miles Bolton Brown Route: Class 3 Not to be confused with Williamson Rock, Mt. Williamson is protected by a long approach and a bit of steep climbing.
Mount Tyndall
Mount Tyndall viewed from Shepherds Pass.
14018'
4273 m
Symmes Creek
6335'
1920 m
~8000 ' / ~10 miles Northwest Ridge: Class 2
North Rib: Class 2-3
Mt. Tyndall offers incredible views and straightforward climbing on good rock.
Split Mountain
Split Mountain, from the northeast.
14058'
4280 m
Red Mountain Creek
6620'
2006 m
7438' / ~6.5 miles North Slope: Class 2 An arduous approach makes Split Mountain a good choice for those seeking solitude.
Middle Palisade
Middle Palisade, from the north.
14040'
4271 m
Glacier Lodge
7750'
2348 m
6290' / 6.5 miles East Face: Class 3-4 Almost 1500 feet of excellent scrambling leads to an airy summit.
Mount Sill
Mt. Sill viewed from Glacier Notch
14153'
4289 m
Glacier Lodge
7750'
2348 m
6403' / ~9.5 miles North Couloir: Class 4 Ascending the North Couloir is a true mountaineering experience.
Polemonium Peak
Polemonium Peak, from Mt. Gayley
14080'
4267 m
Glacier Lodge
7750'
2348 m
6330' / ~9.5 miles Southeast Ridge: Class 3-4 Haven't climbed Polemonium yet.
North Palisade
Mt. Sill (L) and North Palisade (R)
14242'
4316 m
Glacier Lodge
7750'
2348 m
6492' / ~9.5 miles U-Notch: Class 4 North Pal is still on my to-do list.
Starlight Peak
North Palisade (L) and Starlight Peak (R)
14200'
4303 m
South Lake
9850'
2985 m
4350' / ~ 8 miles Northwest Chute: Class 4, 5.4 summit pinnacle Also on the to-do list.
Thunderbolt Peak
Thunderbolt Peak viewed from Mt. Gayley
14003'
4243 m
South Lake
9850'
2985 m
4350' / ~ 8 miles Southwest Chute: Class 3, 5.8 summit monolith. Another peak I've not yet climbed.
Trip report
TR with photos
White Mountain Peak
White Mountain, viewed from the south.
14250'
4318 m
White Mountain Road

~2000' / ~7 miles East Slope: Class 1 The easiest 14'er. Regularly summitted via mountain bike.
Mount Shasta
Mt. Shasta from the west.
14162'
4292 m
Bunny Flat
6900'
2091 m
7262' / ~5 miles Avalanche Gulch: Class 2-3 A wonderful route, can be done easily as a long day hike (weather permitting). $15 summit fee.

 

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Mountaineering Guidebooks

Guidebooks to selected areas.

California's Fourteeners S. Porcella and C. Burns
96 pages. This inexpensive guide has been an invaluable reference. Well written, good B/W photos, and sketch maps showing the dog routes for all the 14'ers. A deal at under $15!

Climbing California's Fourteeners S. Porcella and C. Burns
272 pages. The big brother to Porcella & Burns' earlier volume. This brand new guide contains not just the easiest routes, but almost every known route up all the 14'ers. Extensive historical notes, excellent bibliography, and a generous number of photos and topos. I had to buy it as soon as I saw it.

High Sierra Peaks, Passes and Trails R. J. Secor
368 pages. Covers every named peak in the Sierra, and dozens of interesting cross-country routes. A great reference when planning hiking or skiing trips off the beaten path.

Sierra Classics J. Moynier and C. Fiddler
328 pages. The authors came up with a list of 100 of their favorite Sierra peaks and put them into an excellent guide. Each peak gets at least a page of text and a full-page B/W photo. Some of the more technical routes also have detailed topos.

Mount Whitney: The Complete Trailhead-to-Summit Hiking Guide Paul Richins and Steve Roper
Published in 2001.

Mount Whitney Guide for Hikers and Climbers Paul Hellweg, Scott McDonald
Everything you wanted to know about Mount Whitney, and then some.

High Sierra Hiking Guide to Mt. Whitney Thomas Winnett
85 pages. Even more about Whitney.

The Climber's Guide to the High Sierra Steve Roper
380 pages. This was the original guide to the Sierra

Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada Clarence King
Written by one of the Sierra's early explorers.

Close Ups of the High Sierra Norman Clyde
Norman Clyde needs no introduction. Short essays describe Clyde's Sierra adventures in the early 1900's.

High Sierra : John Muir's Range of Light Phil Arnot
Over seventy Sierra hikes and almost forty wilderness trips.

More books...

More climbing books

 

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Stories

Trip reports and other accounts.

Matterhorn Peak
An early - almost too early - spring ascent of California's classic Matterhorn Peak.

 

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Sierra Bulletin Board

Read and post current conditions, trip reports, requests for information or partners, and more. Focus is intended for the Sierra Nevada of California, but let's see how it evolves.

Go to the board!

 

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Links

Useful resources for current conditions.

Current Radar/Precipitation Data
LAX Doppler Radar Covers Reno down to Northern Baja.
So. Cal Precipitation Map Estimated rainfall from Reno into Northern Baja.
Forecasts


Current     Extended

Road Conditions
Inyo County: 800-447-4696#6#4 (Public Works)
Other Sites
Tet's Mountain Corner Detailed beta for dozens of peaks
Rescue Dynamics Mountaineering and Skiing in the Canadian Rockies

 

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This document was last updated on Thursday, February 22, 2001


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