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Most climbers seem to favor the crowded, parking-lot close routes at Josh, but wilderness climbing is a great alternative. As time permits I'll provide photos of some of the less-popular areas in these pages.
Please treat the JT backcountry with respect! This means sticking to existing trails, packing out anything you carry in (including tape, orange peels and powerbar wrappers, items that show up all too often at the base of climbs). Enjoy the quieter side of JT.
S-Cracks Formation
A short hike from the crowded Lost Horse Wall leads you to this excellent formation. The routes are north-facing and well suited for warmer days.
S Cracks Formation, seen from the North
Left Side Routes
R1: 5.9+* PG?: Excellent underclings and liebacking leads to fun face climbing. Could be lead. Not in any guidebooks but surely its been climbed. FA: Unknown.
R2: 5.9+* TR: Use the Left S Crack as little as possible. Fun sidepulls and monkeybar moves to gain easier face climbing.Not in any guidebooks. FA: Unknown.
Left S Crack: 5.8-*: Excellent, easy crack climbing. A nice warmup. FA: Dave Ohlson, Jon Lonne, 4/1976.
Leading Left S Crack
Right Side Routes
Middle S-Crack: 5.11c R *: The namesake route for the formation. FA: Dave Ohlson, Jon Lonne, 4/1976.
Right S Crack: 5.9**: Stout but well-protected jamming (crux) leads to a non-obvious entry to the chimney. More fun climbing above. FA: Dave Ohlson, Jon Lonne, 4/1976.
Jingus Con: 5.11+ PG**: Starts on Right S Crack but takes a scary-looking traverse to a bolt, then up a shallow seam. FA: John Yablonski, Mike Lechlinski et. al., 1/1988.
Farthest Right S Crack: 5.8: Unappealling, rotten-looking crack. FA: Unknown.
Leading Right S Crack Another View of Right S Crack
References: Rock Climbs of Lost Horse Valley
by Alan Bartlett page 76Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide
by Randy Vogel page 122
This document was last updated on Thursday, November 18, 1999
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