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The Ginger Cracks route is a nice alternative for those dismayed by the crowds at Crimson Chrysalis, or those looking for a less-bolted, more traditional alternative. Though only one pitch is rated 5.9 on this route, solid trad skills and a good rack are essential here - there is only one bolt on the entire climb. Many parties take 12 or more hours to complete the route.
Stats:
| Pitches: | 8 (several can be combined with a 60m rope, for a 5 or 6-pitch climb) |
| Approach: | About 1-1.5 hours. Follow published directions to Crimson Chrysalis (CC). As you hike to the base of the ramp that leads to CC, look to the left of that buttress. You'll see the Ginger Crack crack system. Instead of heading up the ramp to CC, stay lower and left, and begin hiking up the left-hand gully. Cut over right out of the gully to the base of the Ginger Cracks. |
| Gear: | Thin wires to #4 Camalot. |
| Descent: | Multiple pitches of rapelling. 2 ropes required. |
Ben Craft talked me into doing this line in the fall of '98, after promising to lead the crux pitch of 5.9 face climbing. We had a blast, finishing the route early enough to make another pass through the loop road and get in additional climbing near the Sandstone Quarry.
Some notes follow. I'll describe the route as Ben & I did it, using a 60 meter rope.
P1 (5.7): A nice warmup. A choice of two wide cracks leads to fun moves up a big detached flake. Nice belay stance atop the flake.
P2 (5.8): Some interesting moves go right and slightly down from the belay, leading to a good crack system. This just keeps getting better as you go, culminating in well-protected stems through a small chimney/overhang. Above this the crack fades. Our version of this pitch ran the full length of Ben's rope, 60 meters.
P3 (5.9, PG/R): The crux pitch. Some strange climbing - the Uriostes describe it as having "fragile rock and thin protection". While large holds abound, most look questionable, so instead you must use much smaller knobs and nubbins. The route's sole bolt is found midway through the crux section, and is pretty old and manky. "How bad does that bolt look", I yelled up to Ben as he clipped it. "Looks pretty damn good to me" was the answer. The observant leader will find thin wire placements both below and above this bolt. Above, the difficulty eases quickly. Again, we climbed 60 meters on this pitch.
P4 (5.7/8): This pitch wanders slightly left and up. There are some rotten holds but generally good pro and plenty of nice hand and fist jams. We finished this pitch at a large belay ledge.
P5 (5.4): Mostly 4th class but features some nice crack climbing. Finishes on a very large, blocky ledge to the left of a large chimney.
P6 (5.8): Great moves around, then into a beautiful dihedral. Finishes in "The Gunsight", a slot that offers great views both to the north and south.
The Descent: A scramble through The Gunsight led to a short rap from slings to a brushy ledge. We found the first of many bomber 2-bolt rap anchors at the lip of this ledge. Several pitches of rapelling - 2 ropes required, down the new, reportedly classic "Power Failure" (10c, FA Jorge Urioste, crack & face route). The rap route is just to the right of a prominent black waterstreak, easily visible from the road, and finishes at the top of a short gully. Easy scrambling down and to the north took us back to our packs.
Thanks to Ben Craft and Jules George for their help in compiling this beta.
This document was last updated on Sunday, March 06, 2005
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