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Removing Differential 1. Engage parking brake, put in first gear/park and chock from tires. 2. Raise rear of car, putting a jackstand in the
middle of each axle tube. Placing the front of the car on jackstands is also advised. 3. Remove rear tires - Do NOT remove drums or rotors yet. 4. Remove rear sway bar (15mm). 5. Remove driveshaft (12 point 12mm). 6. Remove differential cover
and drain lube. 7. Remove differential shaft retaining bolt (5/16 - use ¼" drive with long extension). 8. Remove differential shaft. 9. Release parking brake and remove drums or rotors; On SN-95's, removal of brakes will necessitate removing
the calipers (13mm) and caliper brackets (15mm). 10. On SN-95's, remove ABS sensors (A female Torx socket is required). 11. Push axles in and remove c-clips from end of the axles within the differential. 12. CAREFULLY remove the axles, being
sure not to damage the axle bearing seals. 13. Remove the differential bearing caps (6 point 3/4" ½" drive socket); Bearing caps must be reinstalled on same side of differential as they were removed. 14. Use a long prybar to dislodge the
differential from axle housing. If differential is in tightly, insert prybar through window in differential and rotate pinion gear. The rotation of the pinion gear will push differential out of the axle housing as the prybar contacts the axle housing.
Note: Bearing races and differential shims must be re-installed on same side of differential as they were removed. Always keep a hand on the differential to prevent loss of front teeth. Removing Pinion Gear 15. Use long bar to hold pinion
flange and remove the pinion nut. A piece of 3ft by 1" U-channel with two holes drilled in it for being attached to pinion flange works well. 16. Use puller to remove the pinion flange. 17. Remove pinion gear. Installing Bearing and Shim
on Pinion 18. Use feeler gauge to measure shim between pinion bearing and back of the pinion gear. The pinion shims may be used in place of feeler gauges. 19. Use race to press new bearing (with shim) onto the new pinion gear.
Note: The use
of the pinion depth tool is not mentioned in these instructions. The pinion depth tool determines a reference distance between the machined seats for the differential bearing seats and the pinion gear rear bearing seat. Variations in the reference
distance result from machining variations in the pumpkin, not the gear sets. It has been my experience in installing FRPP (previously Ford Motorsport) gear sets that using the same size shim on the pinion gear provides the proper pinion depth. The
machined dimensions and tolerance of the FRPP pinion gears gear sets are essentially identical to those of stock Ford gears. Use of non-Ford/FRPP gears may require the use of a depth check tool as dimensions and tolerances for other brands of gear sets
may be different than Ford/FRPP gear sets. Replacing Pinion Races and Seal 20. Use seal puller to remove pinion seal. 21. Use long steel punch to remove pinion races, if replacement is necessary. 22. Use old races or race install tool
to install new races; make sure that are installed to full depth of the bore in the differential. 23. Install new seal using large socket or seal installer. Replacing Ring Gear 24. Remove ring rear bolts (6 point 3/4" ½" drive socket); Use
long rod or long ½" drive extension through differential shaft hole to hold differential while removing bolts. 25. Using a brass punch or block of wood, tap ring gear off of differential. 26. Make sure the new ring gear and differential flange
surfaces are free of debris and burrs. 27. Position new ring rear on differential with bolt holes aligned to holes in differential 28. Use four bolts spaced evenly around the ring gear to draw the ring gear against the flange; tighten each bolt in
small increments to prevent the gear from binding. If all of the four bolts cannot be started, place ring gear in hot water for a few minutes to expand it. 29. Remove four ring gear bolts, apply Loctite to all ring gear bolts and tighten. 30.
Torque bolts in alternating fashion to 70 ft-lbs. Installing Pinion Gear 31. Install a new crush sleeve on the pinion gear, lube the bearing and install pinion gear into the differential. 32. Place pinion flange and nut on the
pinion. 33. Attach long bar to pinion flange and tighten nut just enough to remove play in the gear. 34. Remove bar and rotate pinion gear several turns. 35. Use 1/4" drive torque wrench to check torque required to maintain rotation of pinion
gear. 36. Re-attach bar and tighten bar about 1/16 to 1/8 turn. 37. Repeat steps 34 to 46 until torque required to maintain rotation is 14 to 24 in-lbs; 16 to 20 in-lbs is best for used bearings; 20 to 24 in-lbs is best for all new bearings. 38.
Remove bar when complete. Reinstalling Differential 39. Place differential in axle housing with passenger side race and shim also in place. 40. Install passenger side bearing cap with cast-in arrows pointing outward. 41. Snug
differential cap bolts; make sure differential is not binding as bolts are tightened. 42. Install driver side race and then LIGHTLY tap shim into place with a steel punch; make sure differential is firmly against passenger side race and shim prior to
installing driver side shim. 43. Install driver side bearing cap with arrows pointing outward. 44. Torque bolts to 70 ft-lbs. 45. Rotate differential a few turns. Checking Set-up 46. Check backlash using dial indicator mounted to
machined differential cover surface; dial indicator should be touching outer most part of tooth with the indicator perpendicular to tooth surface. 47. Backlash should be .008 to .012; change shims to adjust backlash, if necessary. 48. Use paint on
the teeth to check pattern (primarily when using non-Motorsport gears and/or installing a new differential). Finishing Install 49. Install the axles. 50. Install c-clips. 51. Install the differential shaft. 52. Install and tighten
the differential shaft retaining bolt. 53. Install ABS sensor (SN-95's). 54. Install rear brakes. 55. Install driveshaft; torque to 90 ft-lbs. 56. Replace differential cover. 57. Fill differential with lube and 4 oz. of friction
modifier. 58. Install tires. 59. Lower car. 60. Make final check. 61. Lit'em up…well, first break in the gears for a few hundred miles first. |
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