Chapter M-2's Technical Corner

Howard Halasz's August 2009 Technical Article


" L - Lights "

T-CLOCK INSPECTION

This month, in my series of T-CLOCK pre-ride inspections, we'll talk about L for Lights. Along with lights, we'll talk about inspecting the whole electrical system.

Let's start with the battery. We'll look at the battery terminals and connectors. If the terminals and cables appear to have a powdery white or yellow buildup on them, they can be cleaned with a solution of baking soda and about 5 ounces of water. If the terminal and cable connections are ignored long enough, the sulfuric acid fumes will eventually eat at the screws and nuts. Some severe cases involve repairing or replacing cables, screws, and the battery.

The electrolyte level should be visually checked on batteries that are not maintenance-free. The battery should also be clamped to the motorcycle tight enough that it doesn't rattle with every bump in the road. If the level is low, use ONLY DISTILLED WATER to bring the level up. DO NOT USE BATTERY ACID.

Batteries that are not maintenance-free have a neoprene rubber vent hose. The vent hose should be checked for kinks, proper routing, and no plugging.

If the battery is starting to show its age, spend a little for a new battery rather than a lot for a new alternator. Attempts to extend the life of a dying battery can result in costly charging system repair.

Light lenses and reflectors need to be checked for breaks and cracks. They also need to be mounted properly. If you see excessive condensation on the inside of the lenses, try replacing the gaskets between the lenses and the light assemblies. This applies to headlights, tail/brake lights, turn signal lights, and running lights.

If the instrument lights appear dim, replace the bulbs. Although the bulbs aren't burned out, the glass globes tend to darken with age. Most bulbs can be purchased at auto parts stores such as Auto Zone® or O'Reilly's®. Some of the bulbs might require removal of the instrument panel. Refer to your service manual if you want to do it yourself. Better yet, let a qualified Honda® technician do it for you. Make sure that your headlight is focused properly. Here again, refer to your service manual if you want to do it yourself. Better yet, let a qualified Honda® technician do it for you.

Now let's take a look at the wiring. Let's look for chafing, fraying, and deteriorated insulation. Any wiring that appears damaged needs to be replaced. Let's not skimp here by using electrical tape or scotch® type pinch connectors. The best types of splices are soldered splices with heat-shrink insulation. This is extremely important when dealing with the high voltages and frequencies that our alternators produce.

The 1988 and newer Gold Wing® alternators also supply higher amps (rate of electrical current).

For those of us that have a lot of electrical aftermarket accessories, we need to make sure that our wires are routed properly. If the accessories came with scotch® connectors, let's not use the connectors. It's best to use crimp type bullet disconnect connectors. The "hot" side should be a female bullet and the accessory side or ground side should be a male bullet.

All wiring should be checked for pinches, interference and pulling at the steering head, and interference and pulling at the suspension components. Make sure the wire looms and wire ties are in place. We don't need to have wires rubbing on tires or pinched between rotor covers and fork legs.

Last but not least, let's take a look at our main fuses and spare main fuses. These fuses will corrode over the years. If your spare main fuse is more than three years old, see your friendly local Honda® dealer for a new set of spare fuses.

Howard Halasz, Technical Coordinator

GWRRA Spring, Texas Chapter M-2